Hirigoyen, chef/owner of San Francisco's Piperade and Bascadillos and author of The Basque Kitchen, makes a worthy contribution to the rapidly growing number of cookbooks from the Iberian peninsula. Hirigoyen focuses on pintxos, Basque for tapas or finger foods, a specialty taken very seriously in his homeland. Many of the selections can be made ahead of time, and many are served at room temperature. Recipes are paired with wine suggestions, including such hard-to-match plates as fried chicken sandwiches, lamb's tongue, and artichoke chips. Dishes are grouped by food type—little sandwiches, stews and braises, fried bites, skewers, etc. Highlights include duck breast with oranges and green olives, tuna belly with lemon confit, tomato and watermelon salad, and fava beans with crème fraîche and mint. A detailed pantry section includes recipes for such staples as aioli, with lemon and orange/saffron variations; ham dust; garlic chips; and veal stock. With 75 recipes and 50 full-color photographs, Hirigoyen showcases a tasty and broad array of small plates that will tantalize and satisfy. (Apr.)
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